What you need:
3-speed shifter, ball bone (trigger), cable, anchor bolt, dusting barrel (you might not need that).
The anchor bolt is a turn barrel fitted a nut and bolt, and in the bolt has a hole. They all the same that come with the cable which is a little bit different but it still does the same exact function. It threads onto the end of the indicator chain which screws into the hub on the inside right through the hole here, you would stick it in a kind of finagle itself in there and then twist around. There are two different kinds of indicator chains as well. So you got twisting it and then it catches and what happens is the change of the gear changes just like disc going in a nap.
Next, you need the specific three-speed nut, and usually, the left-hand side is almost always tripped out. Almost all of your nuts they get screwed up because of the fact that there isn’t a lot of thread that goes onto here. There are two flat on that axle. And most people have flats on it to be able to fit into the dropout, sliding right in. Next, they are going to be going to cable routing
Step 1: Take the stock linkage and the stock column shift lever off by driving the pin out. The mounting brackets are suitable for all installations. Use the stock transmission bolts to fasten the brace, bracket, and leg to the transmission. Use hardware to make the shifter kit fastens the brace, bracket, and leg together.
Step 2: Assemble all parts together loosely with supplied hardware. Fasten the shifter assembly to the transmission using stock hardware, and then tighten all bolts and nuts.
Step 3: Select the shifter mounting hole that is best suited to your installation. Punch a small hole through the floor in line with the selected hole. Use the small hole as a guide, cut a 2-1/2” diameter opening in the floor pan. Fasten the shifter to the mounting bracket. Enlarge the hole if necessary.
Note: Because this is a universal shifter, you may have to bend shift rods or alter brackets to clear obstacles such as cross member or speedometer cables.
Step 4: Select the slots that locate each arm in the best position like the most vertical positions in Neutral. The arms should be located approximately when both shafts are in Neutral. Use stock hardware to attach the arms to the transmission control shafts.
Step 5: Test that the rods are fit or not before installing them. The rod with short threads is the 1st/Reverse rod. The rod with long threads is the 2nd/3rd rod. A threaded coupling and rod extension are provided in case either rod is too short. If you must use the rod extension, install it on the rod with short threads. The rod with the rod extension becomes the 2nd/3rd rod. Use the rod without the extension as the 1st/Reverse rod.
Step 6: Assembly the rod adjusting buttons onto the rods. Note that there are two pairs of holes in each transmission arm. Use the combination of holes that allows optimum travel of the stick when shifting through gears. Connect the rods between the transmission arms and shifter levers.
Step 7: With both transmission control shifts in Neutral, adjust the buttons on the rods so that the edges of the shifter levers are exactly parallel. Check the position of the chrome stick inside the vehicle. Make sure that it is not located too far forward or too far back. If you must relocate the stick, adjust both buttons equally in the required direction.
Step 8: The rods should be positioned approximately parallel. If necessary, bend the rods. Cut off any excess length of rods beyond the rod buttons. Excess rod length could interfere with the operation of the shifter.
Notice that after installation’s completing, adjust the pivot bolt tension. The shifter is correctly adjusted when there is no looseness or binding of the shift lever when shifting through the gears.