Typical tools and supplies may include hex wrenches, a combination wrench for brake caliper mounting and pad adjustment, a cable stretcher such as the Park Tool BT-2, torque wrench and bits to make sure things are properly tight, a screwdriver for brake centering, and a cable cutter for cable trimming and end cap installation. There are single-pivot sidepulls and dual-pivotal sidepulls, and their installment is the same.
Install the sidepull.
The sidepull secure to the frame with a threaded stud and nut. Install it on the bike. Next, install the wheel and make sure it’s fully seated, centered, secured and true. Hold the brake centered to the rim, and secure the nut to manufacturer’s specifications, typically 6-7 newton meters. Getting the calipers close to the center now helps with adjustments later.
Install the cable.
Feed the cable through the barrel adjuster and through the pinch mechanism back the barrel adjuster out two or three turns to allow for later adjustments. Make sure the quick release is in the closed position. Squeeze the pads to the rim and secure the pinch bolt to manufacturer’s specifications, typically 6-7 newton meters.install the sidepull
Adjust pads to the rim.
An important pad setting is the height. For dual pivot sidepulls, we pay attention to the swing. The right arm is moving upward to the rim with you standing in front of the bike, so the lower edge of the pad should strike the lower edge of the braking surface. As the pad thins and wears, it will move up the rim surface. The other arm is moving downward toward the rim. Set the top edge of the brake pad to the top edge of the braking surface, but never so high that it contacts the tire. On a dual symmetric system, both arms of the caliper move upward as they approach the rim. Set both sides low on the braking surface. This is the only difference between the dual symmetric caliper and the dual pivot sidepull, so from here on, we’ll work only with the dual pivot system. Other pad settings include adjusting the face of the pad to match the face of the rim, although not all pad systems allow for this alignment. There’s also tangent: we want to make sure the front and back edge of the pad are even. And finally, there is toe which adjusts the pad so there is a slight gap at the back. Setting toe in the pad can help reduce brake squeal, nut if the brake doesn’t squeal when ridden, the toe is not needed. A useful way to achieve toe is to apply a shim at the back of the pad using a rubber band. Squeeze the lever gently and loosen the pad screw. The pad will self-align because of the gentle pressure we’re adding at the lever. Secure the pad to the manufacturer’s specification-typically 5 newton meters.
Set pad clearance.
Begin by pulling the lever witinstall the sidepullh force to test the cable pinch bolt and settle in the cable system. Next, we set pad clearance, which is the gap between the rim and the pads by feeling up at the lever. A brake that is too tight will mean that we are just barely squeezing the lever and the pads immediately contact the rim. In this case, we bring the barrel adjuster down into the brake, which gives us more cable slack and moves the pads away from the rim. On a brake too loose, you’ll squeeze the lever and nearly contact the handlebar. Here we won’t have enough stopping power. We turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise, drawing out slack and bringing the pads closer to the rim. This is the adequate- the pads strike the rim with at least an inch of travel left at the lever and we have enough space between the pads and rim to allow easy centering. Normally, the front and rear brakes are set to feel the same.
Some models will have a centering screw on the side. Use the screw to move both pads left or right. If the brake looks centered, it is centered.
Cut cable and cap.
Finish by trimming the cable and installing an end cap. We only need enough cable to grab with a fourth hand, a little over an inch is fine.